SUMMERTIME DOLCE VITA 2021 -PT.1

TWO RED-EYES AND AN UNEXPECTED ESPRESSO

Two consecutive redeye flights…what could possibly merit such an ordeal? “A 6-day trip to Italy and France,” I told myself as I struggled to find comfort in the last row of United Economy on my way from LAX to EWR. Before I knew it, however, a slightly sleep-deprived Kyle arrived in New Jersey and spent the day epitomizing the “work from anywhere” concept. Still slightly unclear about the documentation requirements for my EWR to FCO (Rome Fiumicino) flight, I allotted myself 2.5 hours of check-in time.

Lo and behold, I did not have to get a pre-departure COVID test at the airport, as my vaccination card proved to be adequate. Further, the gate agent announced to a crowd of appreciative passengers that Rome, as of that day, was no longer requiring antigen tests upon arrival. It is rare to hear applause at a gate, so the noise made me smile!

Wednesday, June 23:  A dinner tray, short snooze, and breakfast sandwich later, I touched down in Italy’s largest city to find the immigration process more seamless than expected. (Not the case for a friend of mine, Kevin, who arrived three days prior and had to wait in line for 2.5 hours!) Further, I had a most welcome surprise when an ex-colleague and his wife recognized me walking off the plane, which resulted in a “catch up espresso” at the café outside of customs. Che caffè delizioso!

COASTAL HOSPITALITY, FOOD, AND ATMOSPHERE

No sooner had I taken the last sip than my favorite chauffeur, Cristiano de Rosa, arrived to whisk me and Kevin (whom we picked up in central Rome) down to Positano on the Amalfi Coast. The 4-hour leisurely ride was an excellent one given Cristiano’s entertaining stories, sense of humor, and deftness on the road. Oh, and we made a pit stop at Autogrill for another coffee!

Although I admittedly dozed off for a bit, the ride seemed to only last 30 minutes before Cristiano dropped us off in front of an annexed guest suite belonging to Albergo Miramare, which offered views of the majestic blue Tyrrhenian Sea below. Elated to be back in Positano, we cleaned up, changed clothes, and ventured out to chat with various restaurant and shop owners. It only took us a matter of 20 minutes to wind up at one of my favorite dining establishments, Le Tre Sorelle, and its engaging, hospitable owner Luigi Pisacane. Even better, we immediately polished off an aperol spritz to celebrate our arrival, followed by various seafood, pasta, and pizza dishes. Hard to beat this combination of food and atmosphere!

On the way back to the Miramare suite, we gave into temptation and stopped at the Hotel Palazzo Murat courtyard for a few drinks and light appetizers. The scene seems to improve each year, with one of the owners, Benedetta Russo, stopping by our table to chat and share stories about the past year of operations during COVID. Fortunately for the hotel’s revenue stream, plenty of non-Italian tourists were present, which was certainly not the case during my visit a year ago.

Ultimately, I did not have any remaining “gas in the tank” for late night antics, so retired to the room at a respectable hour. Of course, I soon stumbled upon some severe jetlag and tried to overcome it by working for several hours in the middle of the night…at least the wifi speed was satisfactory!

ONE NIGHT, TWO HOTEL ROOMS

Thursday, June 24th:Despite a bit of grogginess at 9am, I forced myself to accompany Kevin on a “Giro di Positano” 6km walk. Actually, I’ve done this stroll many times, which I like because it affords me the chance to visit a myriad of shops, hotels, and restaurants/cafes. Plus, you never know which locals you might cross during the excursion! Besides the epic views, the highlights of the 3-hour outing were “cappuccini freddi” atop the Punta Regina Hotel, another one outside Bar Internazionale, and some mid-day white wine at Tre Sorrelle Wine Room (also run by Luigi).

To our surprise, we ran into an old Positano friend outside of a clothing boutique and decided to catch up over drinks and snacks at Palazzo Murat. Before long, I realized that I needed to return to the room to prepare for the following day’s interview with Alberto and Enza Barba of Petrea Lifestyle Suites. It’s not often that I have access to two hotel rooms on a given night, but this occasion was a unique one given the circumstances. So, I packed a small bag and fled up into the hillside where I was floored by the breathtaking views upon arrival. Even more incredible was the friendliness and personability of Alberto and Enza…it was as if longtime friends were allowing me to stay at their exquisite villa overlooking the aqua-colored sea!

After they walked me through the property, I enjoyed some relaxation in the stunning Leucosia Suite before taking care of some work and hiring a taxi to take me down the hill for dinner at Mediterraneo. This delightful seafood place offers so many enticing menu choices that ordering is no easy task. In the end, I deferred to Kevin’s calamari and fish recommendations, which were phenomenal! Just when we thought the night was over, another Italian friend appeared and accompanied us to Tre Sorelle Wine Room for a “bicchiere di vino bianco.”

We also managed to grab last call at Palazzo Murat’s beautiful outdoor bar, which enabled all of us to wind down before bedtime. Given the late hour, I was slightly worried that I would be unable to find a taxi up to Petrea, but luckily stumbled upon one at the nearby Piazza dei Mulini. Within minutes I again found myself at Petrea, snapped some photos, and settled into bed where I immediately drifted into dreamland.

A TREAT FOR AN INTERVIEW

Friday, June 25: Interview Day! I was bubbling with excitement as I awoke to the Mediterranean sun beaming through Leucosia’s large windows and drawing me to the patio to take in the magnificent view.

Before long, Alberto showed up at a predetermined time to drop off breakfast and establish a firm time for the podcast recording. What person could possibly be displeased with a meal like this!?

Roll the tapes! Over the course of the ensuing 1.5 hours, this entrepreneurial couple described their journey from conception to completion of this longtime real estate dream, inclusive of numerous COVID related challenges. It goes without saying that the conversation was highly entertaining given the close bond that we share…so many laughs! Cannot wait for the episode with them to launch! 

To my pleasant surprise, Alberto and Enza invited me for a post-interview lunch in their lovely home, which was cooked by Alberto’s mother. Although she and her husband did not speak English, we easily communicated through my extremely limited Italian and hand gestures. The most important for me was to express how much I enjoyed their hospitality and food!

Wanting to prolong this magical time at Petrea as much as possible, I adjourned to Alberto’s kitchen for the most delicious coffee of my trip, which I consumed while overlooking the sea. Unfortunately, I then realized it was time to pack up and return to town via the local bus…good thing the incredible memories will always be with me!

CONFRONTING FOMO AND CHASING THE SUNSET

After a short work session back at Miramare, I received word that Kevin had taken a water taxi to Spiaggia della Gavitella(Gavitella Beach) in the adjacent town of Praiano. Suddenly confronting a severe case of FOMO, I followed suit and arrived at the same spot, which features a restaurant and bar serving up the best casual Italian fare imaginable.

Once I inhaled a generous portion of “prosciutto e melone” and the sun started to set, we hiked up 300 steps to Café Mirante. The bartender and co-owner, Ciro, welcomed us with open arms, introduced us to his latest cocktail menu, and updated us on the latest developments in the area.

After witnessing a sunset that ranked 11 out of 10 for beauty, we said “ciao” and hiked up to the most trafficked road in Praiano. Thanks to Ciro, we connected with Paolo Arace and his golf cart taxi service, returning to Positano along the windy roads like VIPs at the Masters. Despite our earlier meal at the beach, hunger overcame us and led to a pasta stop at Ristorante Bruno, followed by a “digestivo” at Franco’s Bar. What a surreal, incredible day!  

Read Part 2